Feeling at Home With Vancouver Culture, Community

Source: By Chris Jancelewicz, AOL Travel

Posted: 08/25/09 12:27PM

Filed Under: Canada Travel Guide

When people think about Vancouver, their thoughts generally turn to the outdoors: tall, lush trees, boating, biking, hiking, and of course, the mountains north of the city. The resorts up north tend to cast a shadow over the metropolitan area, which teems with energy despite it. What many fail to realize is the host city of the 2010 Winter Olympic Games is actually a city alive with art, culture, a sense of community, and yes, even nightlife.

The last time I visited Vancouver I was a teenager, and like so many other families who come to British Columbia, it was a quick stop-over in the city before heading up to Whistler/Blackcomb for skiing. All I can remember are gigantic trees lining the roads like mini-rainforests (which is actually what they are). Much to my delight, they’re still there after 15 years – and you can’t say that for a lot of other Canadian cities.

I still have to take a cab from the airport; I missed by mere weeks the opening of the new SkyTrain expansion that links the airport, the waterfront and suburban Richmond, B.C. It’s 19 kilometres long, takes 25 minutes to ride, and cost $2 billion, but airport commuter links such as these are a traveller’s dream, and will indeed serve the city well once the Olympics madness rolls into town.

I check into the luxurious boutique Opus Hotel in trendy Yaletown, once an industrial district but now one of the hippest areas to live in the city. Just by looking at the transformed lofts and ubiquitous condominiums, it’s obvious that this neighbourhood is for the young, social set. The beauty of the neighbourhood lies in the sense of community that trumps the hipness factor. People smile as you pass, and despite the pounding rain, laughter echoes off the walls of the former warehouses.

It’s easy to feel like a Vancouverite – it happens almost immediately – as I sit down to brunch at Glowbal Grill and Satay Bar. The place is jammed on a Sunday morning, and I can see why as I’m treated to a delicious smoothie-in-a-shot-glass as a warm-up, and deep-fried mouth-watering Timbit lookalikes. I order the ‘Yaletown Breakfast’, which is basically the ol’ eggs-and-toast-and-bacon combo, but artfully served and tasty to boot. I’m tempted by the thought of dessert – it’s probably spectacular here – but am way too full to even contemplate it.

From there, I head to the Vancouver Museum, where I’m greeted out front by a gigantic silver crab sculpture. As a fan of 1970s ‘futuristic’ art, I’m pleased. While the museum itself is rather tiny, it’s still a great destination for those interested in Vancouver's history (which is covered extensively – most notably the Asian migration and Japanese internment).). Also, there’s an exhibit on the history of the bicycle in urban British Columbia, called ‘Velo-City’, and I’m amazed at the extent of the coverage. Room after room is filled with different types of bicycles and the history behind them. The exhibit ends September 7, 2009, so hurry to catch this excellent show.

Upcoming at the museum is something called ‘Ravishing Beasts’, which is a controversial display of all things taxidermy. It will run from October 22, 2009 to February 28, 2010. Think it’s not provocative? The website receives a ridiculous amount of hate mail. Seems people aren’t fans of the ‘squirrel lamp’.

Also housed within the museum is the H.R. MacMillan Space Centre, which is devoted to the study of astronomy and space. It’s chock-full of interactive exhibits, and just as a warning, it’s so packed with kids that you can hardly turn around. This is a great place for families to visit – Mom and Dad can relax while their children try to land a space shuttle.

Another noteworthy museum in Vancouver is the Bill Reid Gallery, dedicated to the late Bill Reid, who was a groundbreaking Canadian First Nations artist and sculptor. If you’re Canadian, you more than likely know his work, which includes his famous totem pole and frieze sculpture. Though subdued, the beautiful gallery space seems an appropriate tribute to the man.

At this point, I’m hitting a bit of art overload, and realize I don’t have time to hit up the Vancouver Art Gallery, which has exhibits on Rembrandt and a permanent Emily Carr gallery, amongst many others. A notable upcoming exhibit, called ‘Dawn’, focuses on the Group of Seven and runs from September 19, 2009 until January 27, 2010. At press time I’m not sure what exhibits are planned to run during the Olympics, but I’m sure they’ll be distinctly Canadian.

I walk down to the waterfront and venture along the boardwalk – full of bikers and walkers – to Granville Island, which houses the typical tourist traps like buskers and souvenir shops, but it’s all in good fun. Located in the middle of the city under Burrard Street Bridge, the island is home to a bustling market, where you can buy anything from fresh fish to produce to ice cream. Locals insist it’s the only place to shop for food. Indeed, the atmosphere is that of a small town within a city, and it’s jam-packed with shoppers and visitors alike. (Lakefront Toronto, take note: THIS is how you remake a waterfront).

Now on a mission to unwind, I head back to Opus on the handy-dandy Aquabus and indulge in a drink at the hotel’s Elixir bar. With huge windows that look out onto Davie Street, the place is like a lounge on opium. I sink into a dream-like state as I sip on my drink on the long couches with gigantic lush pillows line the walls. It’s no wonder that celebrities like the entire Twilight cast, Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher, and Zac Efron frequent the bar’s Velvet Room when they’re in Vancouver. It’s luxurious and the finger foods (‘petite’ burgers, dumplings, spring rolls) are fantastic.

Just down the street from Opus is Capones Restaurant and Live Jazz Bar, a neighbourhood staple since the 70s, and my destination for dinner. It’s dimly-lit inside, and the red brick walls add to the jazz-bar vibe, but it’s a warm, friendly environment. I’m tapping my fingers and smiling the whole time.

A Juno Award-winning blues guitarist plays away while I inhale the yummy starter salad (baby greens with bocconcini and strawberries) – every leaf is gone from that bowl by the end. For my entree, I order the ahi tuna, which is served semi-rare on a bed of wild rice. It’s quite possibly the largest tuna steak I’ve ever seen, and it’s delicious. Again, I eat every bit of it. Even though I’m full, I order a chocolate pie for dessert, which is really just pecan pie with chocolate lining the crust. As much as I want to, I can’t finish it. If you’re a fan of jazz, good food, and a good time, I highly recommend Capones.

Sated, both physically and mentally, I head back to Opus. Nightlife is just beginning to hop: crowds of people migrate from one bar to another, and laughter once again bounces off the walls. I no longer picture the trees when I think of Vancouver – instead I get an all-encompassing feeling of neighbourhood and community, like I could return here at any point and still feel like I belong.