Whistler/Blackcomb: Soaring to New Heights

Source: By Chris Jancelewicz, AOL Travel

Posted: 08/26/09 11:37AM

Filed Under: Canada Travel Guide

The last time I took the Sea-to-Sky shuttle bus, which runs from Vancouver up the mountains to the ski resorts of Whistler/Blackcomb, it was an ordeal. I remember it took hours as the poor old bus struggled to get to the top.

This time it was much faster. Much to my surprise (and immense joy) there has been intense construction and lane-widening on the highway to make way for the Olympics traffic in February 2010. The winding trip now takes two hours (tops), and is mostly slowed by the traffic in Vancouver. Along the way, I’m amazed by the breathtaking views and vistas through the bus window. I’m equally impressed with the bus driver’s skill as he weaves and squeezes his way through various construction zones – he invents his own Olympic event: bus slalom.

I arrive in Whistler strangely invigorated and check into the Adara Hotel, which is a ‘sister’ hotel to the Opus in Vancouver. Centrally located in Whistler Village, it provides easy access to everything: restaurants, nightlife, and of course, the slopes.

As touristy and marketed as the Village has become, there is still a warm, friendly atmosphere as you walk the quaint streets. The town continues to obey some simple – and incredibly smart – regulations: there are building height restrictions, so people can always see the mountains from the village, and there are minimal street lights at night, so you can always see the stars.

Whistler is arguably the most dog-friendly town in the country, and after seeing the number of dogs I did in a five-minute period, I have to say it may be the most dog-friendly place in the WORLD. I was just waiting to see a dog ski store or maybe a dog-lift up the mountain. You can bet it’s happened before.

The Whistler representative showing me around is an absolute gem. She tells me about a plague that has cursed most Olympic host cities, which is known as ‘the aversion year’. It goes something like this: people/tourists/visitors avoid booking vacations at the Olympics locale during the time period just before the Olympics, mostly for fear that it will be busy and thus a nightmare. In actuality, she tells me, it tends to be the most low-volume time, and ironically the best time to visit. So, all you skiers and boarders out there, take note: booking for December 2009 or January 2010 may just be your best bet. And you can probably assume that right after the Olympics would be another great time to go.

As an Ontarian, I did experience SOME aversion during my trip. I was dismayed by one fact that I learned about Whistler: there is not ONE Tim Horton’s in the entire village. Instead, I’m treated to a Starbuck’s on every corner. Sigh – it’s SO west coast. Oh, and another thing: I’m not the greatest when it comes to heights, so I’ve decided to face my fears on the mountain. I used to think, ‘What better place?’, but looking up and seeing the peak obscured by clouds does enough to have me doubt.

To strengthen my nerves (and resolve), I go for a drink at the local favourite bar, Citta’s (pronounced ‘Cheetah’s’). Centrally-located and buzzing with life, the bar has an amazing patio that overlooks the streets of Whistler. It’s people-watching and sun-lazing at its best. I stop off and grab a Beavertail, too (a deep-fried piece of dough covered in sugar) – it’s a must when visiting Whistler.

At the recommendation of many locals (and my tour guide), I head to dinner at the Trattoria Di Umberto restaurant, located within the Mountainside Lodge. The warm, Tuscan-style dining hall has an interesting open-kitchen concept. For those fascinated by the art of cooking, a seat at the bar is for you. I choose a table for two in the dining room, and watch as families, groups and couples stream in endlessly.

There’s plenty of food to choose from (ahi tuna, west coast salmon, prawns over risotto), but I opt for the beef filet, which is very tender and tasty, grilled exactly to order. And for every food option, there are probably two or three wine options. The wine list is ridiculously expansive, and instead of sifting through years and flavours, I allow the manager to select for me. He picks a blend that goes perfectly with the meat.

That’s another thing that makes the Trattoria dining experience so fulfilling – the manager spends the evening visiting tables, chatting, and greeting people at the door. Many frequent visitors seem to know him. It seems like it would be the perfect restaurant to visit after a day on the slopes. I leave feeling rejuvenated and full, almost like after a meal with family.

I avoid the bursting nightclubs, bars, and restaurants (I happen to be in Whistler during Kokanee Crankworx, only the biggest mountain bike festival in the world) to get back to my hotel room, knowing that I have an appointment early in the morning with ZipTrek Tours, the local zip-lining organization. Nothing like zipping hundreds of feet on a suspended cable above raging river rapids to instill the fear of God.

The next morning, as I leave for zip-lining (and I’m sure, my impending death), I put my driver’s licence in my pocket, just in case. I want to make sure if they find my carcass on the forest floor, at least they’ll know who I was. As the tour begins and we start winding up the mountain, my ears pop. When we arrive at our first ‘zip’, we’re at the top of some very tall trees standing on a sometimes-wobbly platform. As I gripped the railing, I told myself to get over it quickly – standing on a rickety platform is hardly the worst thing I was going to do that day.

The actual zip-lining experience is at once terrifying and exhilarating. The first few seconds are a blur, and I know my first whole zip was just me swearing the whole way across. If you can make it off the wooden step to nowhere, you’re good. Eventually, on your second or third run, you’ll be able to actually LOOK at your surroundings as you glide across: beautiful river, misty low clouds, lush vegetation. By the end of the tour, I was fairly confident in my ability, though I was way too chicken to go upside-down, and was derided for it by my tour guides.

Back on solid non-mountainous ground, I mustered up some more courage and headed straight for the gondola up Whistler Mountain. I figured, why stop now? For most of the 10-ish minute ride, we were consumed in clouds, which was just fine. It started to get a bit scary when we were ascending the main peak (SO steep), but when we got to the top I was grateful – there was an older version of the Whistler gondola on display, and let’s just say the current ones are like Lincolns compared to them.

When I get to the top, I realize that Whistler/Blackcomb has certainly upped the ante for the Olympics. It has created the Peak-2-Peak gondola that connects the mountaintops of Whistler and Blackcomb, so that athletes and visitors alike can easily go from one locale to another, all in 11 minutes. The most amazing thing about it is along the entire gondola line (all 4.4 km of it), there are only FOUR towers. The whole middle of the line is unsuspended. It must be experienced to be believed – I pretty much sat and tried not to look down the whole way across. I have to admit it was unlike anything else I’ve ever experienced; it was seamless, quiet, and the view was gorgeous. For the adrenaline-seeker, there were gondolas that had glass bottoms, though I don’t know why you’d do that to yourself.

Inspired by the beauty I saw from the Peak-2-Peak, I decided to go for a short hike at the top of Blackcomb. The easy trails were dotted with tourists, but once I ventured to the intermediate hike, it was me alone with nature. If you luck out and get a semi-sunny day, the views are beyond spectacular, and the air is invigorating. Sure, I was a bit sweaty from the hiking, but it was well worth it to witness these vistas. I used up half my camera’s memory card on the hike alone.

After a harrowing chairlift ride down the mountain by myself (! ) through the clouds, I decide to have a celebratory beer on a patio. Any patio will do at this point. The percentage of time I’d spent airborne that day was far too high. I choose the typical sports bar, Tapley’s, and despite the occasional loud outburst from inside, the patio is a great place to vegetate and bask in the sun. The beer is one of the best I’ve ever had, but it was more than likely my state of mind.

Sitting there in the mountain sun, I realized how good a choice the IOC made in picking Vancouver/Whistler/Blackcomb for the Olympics. The mountains and the Village provide the perfect place for a gathering of the world’s athletes, not to mention a place to surmount your fears. Climb every mountain, or so they say.